Asia: Bhutan

I remember the sights of Bhutan
Vibrant red poinsettias
Endless green mountainsides
Stair stepped rice terraces
Sacred golden temples and majestic Dzongs
108 white prayer flags scattered on a hill
And homes adorned with bright colorful artwork- Showing the joy and culture of this land.

I remember the sounds of Bhutan.
Quiet, Blessed Quiet.
Roosters crowing at dawn
Schoolchildren yelling “Bye, Bye!”
A Granny calling us to her temple
Chants- which open the heart
And the frantic yet harmonic music
At the Temple of the Divine Madman.

I remember the tastes of Bhutan
Spicy pumpkin curry soup
Nutty, robust red rice
Sweet apples- just picked that morning
Surprise chocolates at Tigers Nest
And mostly- chilies, red fiery chilies
Hot, hot, hot.

I remember the smells of Bhutan
Pure, fresh air
Incense in the Temples
Smoky fires ready to make tea
Sweet wildflowers sprinkled along our path
And the pungent smell of chilies
Baking on the hot tin roofs.

But Mostly…
I remember the people of Bhutan
The sweetness of the young monks
The joy in the children’s faces
The smiles and helping hands from Ongdi, Tsetn and Ugen
Sangay’s great love and knowledge of his country.
And my Bhutanese Guardian Angel- Kinley.
Showing me the heart and soul of this land
While making me feel safe every step of the way.

I remember Bhutan
With gratitude and joy.

Poet: S. Enderle

Vistas: Turban Dressing, Meharangh Fort, Jodphur, India

Mangia: Peruvian Chicken

So yummy. Served at a local café in Cusco, it had me coming back for more (3 times).

1 whole chicken (about 4 pounds)
4 tablespoons white vinegar
3 tablespoons white wine
3 tablespoons canola oil
2 1/2 tablespoons garlic powder
2 tablespoons paprika
1 1/2 tablespoons cumin
2 teaspoons black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
juice of 1 lemon
1 quart cold water

Preparation:

Combine vinegar, wine, oil with garlic powder, cumin, paprika, black pepper, and salt. Mix well to form a paste. Add lemon juice to cold water. Trim chicken of any excess or loose fat. Wash chicken thoroughly with lemon water. Place chicken in zip-top bag. Pour spice paste over chicken. Coat chicken completely with mixture rubbing into every surface. Try to get the paste under the skin as much as possible.
Seal bag and place chicken in refrigerator for at least 2 hours. The chicken will have more flavor the longer it "marinates" in the spice mixture. Do not refrigerator more than 24 hours however.

Preheat grill and prepare rotisserie. Place chicken on rotisserie and on the grill for approximately 1 1/2 hours at a temperature around 300 degrees F. (150 degrees C.) Test chicken for doneness by measure in the temperature in the thickest part of the thigh. Chicken is done at 165 degrees F. (75 degrees C.).

This chicken is frequently served with dipping sauce. A simple version of this sauce is made from combining 1/2 cup of mayonnaise with 2 tablespoons mustard and 2 tablespoons lime juice.

Vistas: Katch That Kandy!, Karnival, Koln, Germany

Bali: I'm Gonna Wash That Funk Right Off Of My Body

I’m gonna wash that funk right off of my body
I’m gonna wash that funk right off of my body
I’m gonna wash that funk right off of my body
And sent it on its way

Whenever I travel there are certain activities I like to experience around the world. They are (in no order of preference) horseback riding, wine tasting and spa indulgences. Bali is known for its spa remedies. Mind you, I travel on a budget and with a curious mind so I opted out of spa treatments at the more luxurious hotels; I wanted a more authentic experience. By chance, strolling down the street from my hotel I happened upon Body Works, a true Balinese Spa. They are an independent spa just up from Jl. Dhyana Pura.

The day before my flight out of Bali I decided to treat myself to a true Balinese spa treatment and popped in to enquire about their services. One treatment sounded particularly enticing to me, the ‘Javenese Lulur.’ The treatment begins with an hour long Balinese massage. Then, the entire body is painted in a brown, granular paste (the traditional Javanese lulur), containing turmeric, sandalwood, cinnamon, ground nuts and rice. The paste is then gently rubbed to exfoliate the skin. After a quick shower, cool, fresh, yoghurt is splashed, then smoothed over the skin. The yoghurt’s enzymes stimulate cell activity and restore PH balance of the skin, which feels as soft as silk as soon as the yoghurt is washed away. The final step involves luxuriating in a fragrant, warm, flower filled bath. For $25 USD? George Washington rocks! I walked in to Body Works and found them to be friendly and laid back. They asked me if I wanted a massage. I said “Tidak saya glee.” (No, I’m not ticklish). Body Works has a reception area at the front and 9 small private rooms located behind. Each room has a bed with a bath.

A young, very young, masseuse, guided me to one of their rooms and in a language I clearly don’t’ understand, instructed me to take it all off (she couldn’t have been older than age 19.) Take it ALL off, right in front of her (no private dressing rooms, no towel to cover up). Memories of a young girl came back to me; undressing in the girls locker room in Jr. High flooded me where I escaped to the girl’s locker room to change in to my gym shorts flooded me. I was a modest young woman growing up but I had to (and did) get over it! She wasn’t going anywhere. “When in Rome Erika…when in Rome,” so I undressed completely in front of her eyes. Completely undressed I was ready to go. “Get over yourself” I thought and I did and it was Heaven.

Body Works spas services are divided into Massages, (which include Full Body Massage, Exfoliation Massage, Thai Massage, Shiatzu Massage, Aromatherapy Massage, Back Massage, Foot Massage), Hair Treatments (which include Creambath, L'oreal Spa Creambath, Hair Coloring, Highlighting, Eyelash / Eyebrow tinting, Shaving), Facial (which includes Sari Ayu Facial, Biokos Seaweed Facial, Biokos Aloe Vera Facial, New-Bio-Lifting Facial), Waxing (which includes Bikini, Brazilian, Half Leg, Full Leg, Lip & Eyebrow, Underarm, Back Waxing, Chest Waxing), Natural Nail Care (which includes Bodyworks Manicure, French Manicure, Flower Manicure, Sports Manicure, Polish Manicure, Polish Change, Bodyworks Pedicure, French Pedicure, Flower Predicure, Sports Pedicure

A sample selection of prices are as follows: Full Body Massage (1 hour) 139,000rp), Highlighting (short hair) 309,000rp, Biokos Seaweed Facial (1 hour) 115,000rp, Bikini Waxing 55,000rp, Sports Manicure 60,000rp.

Body Works has another location on Jl. Kayu Jati, the small lane that runs between Jl. Oberoi and Jl. Petitenget. They open from 9am-10pm.

Bodyworks Jl. Seminyak (0361) 730454Bodyworks Jl. Kayu Jati (0361) 733317
Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 63, Seminyak
Kuta, Bali
Tel/Fax: (0361) 730454

Jl. Kayu Jati No. 2, Petitenget
Kuta, Bali
Tel/Fax: (0361) 733317

Buenos Aires: Tango Forever

Passion. Passion is just not fire, ambition and fireworks, passion can be so subtle it can be found in everyday life. Passion has such an intensity to the definition, an exuberance, however, I think it is really simple. Passion doesn’t only exist when times are high and the feast is huge and the wine is flowing. Passion is a feeling for life, whatever the circumstances; the conflicts, despair, loss, wants. It’s about finding the beauty, sensuality and the electricitiy to reignite your spirit in the everday life. I discovered passion during my trip to Argentina, a country that’s been burgeoning with passion since it’s very existence, in good times and bad. Like stopping by a gas station you can refuel your passion (for less dollars these days I'm sure) through the dance of tango. In a bar, on the dancefloor, in the living room or on the street. Tango. Tango forever.

Photo: Couple dancing the Tango on the streets of Buenos Aires.

Peru: The Power Of Now (Part I)

Before embarking on a trip I always wonder what the outcome may bring. What might I learn, experience or discover? When under a different tilt of the earth’s axis what will the sun shed light on? When I return home will I view myself and the world differently? I discovered I did indeed possess an outdoorsy side after Australia and New Zealand. India made me appreciate my female right to speak my mind and freedom to walk in front, side by side or without a man. London ignited the power of a dapper Saville Row suit with matching handbag and shoes.

To aid in these discoveries I’d bring along a book to read on long flights, train rides, lay-overs and T.V.-less hotel rooms. For France, I read Gustave Flaubert's Madame Bovary. In India, Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure by Sarah McDonald and in Costa Rica, Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat, Pray, Love. For Peru, I brought along a book titled The Power of Now: A Guide To Spiritual Enlightenment by Eckhart Tolle. Perhaps I could enlighten myself spiritually (much needed) while enduring the cross country bus journeys and the week-long camping and horse trek through the Peruvian Andes, sleeping under the stars in a tent.

Months prior to my trip I visited my family and during Saturday morning coffee my Dad confronted me. “I’m really worried about you” he said. I resisted rolling my eyes back. I’ve had these dialogues many times before and expected a parental sermon on the state of my 401K, who’s doing my taxes this year or how diversified my mutual funds are.

“I’m fine Dad. I am putting the max I’m allowed per paycheck in to my 401K and the company matches dollar per dollar.”

“No that’s not what I’m talking about. Are you really going to take this trip?”

“Of course I am! It’s all planned out, flight is booked. I’m ready to go.” I chuckled.

“No, Erika, I’m being very serious here. I’m worried about you because you’re acting out of character and when someone you love is acting out of character, talking about doing things out of the ordinary, you begin to worry about them.”

“Dad! Come on! I’m not on drugs or pregnant! I’m talking about taking a horseback riding trip! Nothing could be more in character. You know me. I’ve loved horses since I was 5 years old. You were there when I first rode a horse. In fact, you were right behind my horse teasing it to go faster while I was yelling for dear life! And I’ve loved it ever since.”

“Yes, I appreciate that. I’m talking about the camping aspect of this trip. This is so out of character for you. You’ve never camped a day in your life. Do you realize what you’re getting yourself in to? Where are you going to go to the bathroom at night?”

“Well, they didn’t exactly highlight bathroom needs in the brochure but I assume I’ll just head off somewhere in private, out in nature.” I chuckled again, in vain, because a part of me knew my Dad had a strong argument. If he was a betting man he would have pooled his entire retirement savings on me not surviving this camping trip. For him, the odds were too damn good that I would bail at the thought of a squat and potty amidst nature. If I were a betting woman, I would have known that a warm chicken salad sandwich (heavy on the mayo) bought from a street side café and consumed on a hot, Sunday afternoon in the town of Cusco, Peru, is a bet NOT to take a chance on.

Story to be continued in Part II...